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Top 10 Best Film To Digital Converters Reviewed In 2018Last Updated July 1, 2018
№1 – Wolverine F2D Mighty 20MP 7-in-1 Film to Digital Converter
This device enables you to convert all the 126,127,110 and 35 mm to digital jpeg images that will last forever without any hassles. With one of these film to digital converters, you can also convert 8mm and super 8 movies to digital format images and videos. This is a simple to use the device that enables you to convert a film into 20 megapixels digital images in a matter of seconds. Furthermore, no computer software is needed. You only need to plug it into an AC outlet or a USB port and with a simple push of a button, everything gets done. It is equipped with speed load adapters that enable you to load slides and negative instantly. Yet, you can view your saved images on a 2.4-inch color screen. Also, it has TV out jack thus you can view the images and videos on external screens.
№2 – ClearClick Film To USB Converter 35mm Slide and Negative Scanner with 3″ Color LCD
This is a perfect tool for all your photography needs. It enables you to scan all films and slides to jpeg format. It is compatible with 35mm or monochrome slides. After the conversion, it stores the images on SD. It requires no co computer or Mac for a scan. Its impressive features allow you to convert the old films and slides in just a matter of seconds. Also, after everything is done, you can opt to use the included cable video to connect it to an external display for viewing. The package includes a 2 GB SD card.
№3 – Wolverine SNAP20 20 Megapixels Slides Negatives and Photo to Digital Image Converter
This device has an appealing design. It is very effective in instant conversion of analog format photos into a digital jpeg format. It is compatible to 35mm slides whereby it converts them into jpeg in a matter of seconds. The results are incredible.it produces 20 megapixels images that are indeed quality in productions and sharing as well as storage. You can enjoy a super-fast conversion of images with no technical problems. The unique standalone feature is worth praising. No computer software or device will be required. This digital photo converter is a holistic approach to converting films and slides into digital format. The color looks elegant. It is red.
№4 – Wolverine F2D Super 20MP 4-In-1 Film to Digital Converter
This one forms the best way to convert 8mm, 126kpk 110, and Super 8 slides into digital formats within a blink of an eye. It is perfectly adapted to speed by having speed load adapters. They enhance quick loading of slides and negatives thus faster scanning and production of jpeg images. It requires no computer or program. Also, you can save up to 40 images in its internal memory or external SD cards. It is compatible with Mac and computers, therefore, ideal any photo processing projects. The design looks charming by having a compact body and beautiful monitor. It is an ideal film to digital converter.
№5 – Magnasonic All-In-One High-Resolution 22MP Film Scanner-Converter
Think of it as a device that will effortlessly convert your 135,126KPK, 110, Super 8 and even negative into a premium high resolution 22 MP Jpeg images. You can revive your memories and expound those breathtaking moments with your newest generation. Show them your past and unforgettable moments within a splash of seconds. This is an ideal device that lets you view your scanned documents with a vibrant full color. Also, you can connect the device to an external TV or monitor via the included video out TV cable. You can view your updated images with no hassle as this device requires no computer or any software. It has everything needed to get your updated images out of the outdated ones. It relieves you the need of cutting the film into strips.it can scan the whole film to give you the best. Also, the combination with one touch scanning software enhances the loading and saving of the jpeg images.
№6 – Wolverine Data SNaP100 Slides – to Digital Image Converter
This device looks simple, but the reality is that it is very sophisticated. The impressive design combines the standalone features to give faster and incredible results. It is the best way to preserve your old 35mm slide, negatives, and photos eternally without any worries. It has an internal memory and 2.4-inch color screen to give you added convenience. Also, it is powered by electricity, and you can convert up to 1 GB on a single charge. The output is a clean 5.1 megapixels digital picture.
№7 – Wolverine F2D 35mm Film to Digital Image Converter with 4-Inches LCD and TV-Out
The conversion speed is five seconds. With a simple push of a button, you get your 5-megapixel pictures. It comes with some accessories to help you enjoy maximally. These include an F2D200 scanner, AC power adapter, negative cartridges, slide cartridges, USB cable and a lens cleaner. As always the Wolverine products feature standalone therefore no computer or computer program needed. It is compatible with Mac and PC. Therefore, by a simple push of a button you get your digital image. Also, you can opt to view it on external display by connecting it via USB cable.
№8 – Wolverine F2D20 -20 Mega Pixels 35mm to Digital Converter
This one boasts extreme speed. In just 3 seconds you can view, archive or share your format digital images. The output is incredible. It surpasses other similar products by having 20 megapixels jpeg images. It still enjoys a standalone feature thus requires no computer or software. It is compatible with PC and MAC device. It will effortlessly convert the 35mm negatives and slides anytime you need. You can then video-out via the USB cable to enjoy bigger and beautiful digital images.
№10 – Wolverine F2D Super 20MP 4-In-1 Film to Digital Converter
The sophisticated nature of this particular film to digital converter makes it number one. We’re talking about super speed and a wide range of functionality. In just a matter of seconds, you can convert the 35mm, 110, 126KPK, and super 8 slides into the desirable jpeg. The internal memory can hold up to 40 -20-megapixel images. It features exceptional speed load adapters for fast slide and negative loading. It is compatible with virtually all versions of Windows and Mac operating systems, you can connect it to a TV screen via a USB cable for a more vivid and entertaining view. It is for sure the best film to digital converter.
Film To Digital Converters Technical Details
Wolverine F2D Mighty 20MP 7-in-Film to Digital Converter
Wolverine SNAP20 20 Megapixels Slides Negatives and Photo to Digital Image Converter
Wolverine F2D Super 20MP 4-In-Film to Digital Converter
Magnasonic All-In-One High-Resolution 22MP Film Scanner-Converter
Wolverine F2D 35mm Film to Digital Image Converter with 2.4-Inches LCD and TV-Out
Wolverine F2D Mighty 20MP 7-in-Film to Digital Converter
Use A Slide Projector
Probably the most obvious method of digitising slides is to employ a slide projector. It doesn’t have to be brand new – it might be comparatively ancient, like mine! – but it does have to be able to project a clear image of the slide. Best results can be achieved by blacking out windows, switching off lights and using a digital camera to snap the projected image.
You may also be able to get your hands on an old compact converter box. This requires you to project the slide into one side, while a camera is used to capture the image, reflected to a 90 degree angle.
DSLR Slide Duplicator Mount
These lens-mounted devices can be attached to a DSLR and used to photograph slides. As you can imagine, this gives certain advantages for digital post-production on the device itself, and in some cases it is possible to blow-up and examine small sections of a slide.
You don’t even need to take a photo. If your DSLR has a video out feed, it is possible to use the device as a slide viewer through your computer or digital TV.
Turn Your iPad Into A White Screen & Take A Photo!
If splashing out on expensive hardware isn’t your idea of an effective way of digitising your slides, a team up between your iPad and iPhone could be the way forward for you.
There’s no reason why you should have to use Apple devices for this. Any smartphone with a large enough screen could be used as a light source, with a second, high-quality smartphone camera positioned to take the snap, digitising your slide. However if you are using an iPad be sure to enable Guided Access under Settings > General > Accessibility > Guided Access so you can disable touchscreen input and view your slides unhindered.
Keeping the second phone steady might be a challenge, so consider using a secure tripod or perhaps even a DIY cardboard photocopier, as explained previously on MakeUseOf
DigMyPics won’t fix damaged photos, but its real-time tracking system lets you monitor your job’s progress, and you can delete unwanted images from your order.
DigMyPics doesn’t repair damaged photos, but they impressed us with a real-time tracking tool that lets you see the status of your order and has thumbnail previews available as soon as images are scanned. After viewing those online previews, you can delete up to 20 percent of the images from your order without being charged for them, saving you from paying for out-of-focus or uninteresting pictures that you sent in unwittingly. Unlike our top choice, DigMyPics can handle large-format (4-by-5) slides or negatives and APS film cartridges. for 59¢ per photo
Why you should trust me
I’ve been covering camera and printer gear here at The Wirecutter since 201and have worked as a professional photographer and digital imaging consultant for 1years. I also ran my own digital printmaking shop for a nearly a decade, producing high resolution drum scans and inkjet prints on wide format inkjet printers. I’m on the faculty of New York City’s International Center of Photography and lead photography workshops around the country.
How we picked
No source that we could turn up has sent identical scan jobs to multiple services and compared the results side by side. So we did.
To find the best scanning service, we sent out duplicate sets of prints and film to 1different online providers across the country. Photo: Amadou Diallo
Using these criteria we were able to narrow the field to a list of contenders small enough to ship out identical sets of prints, slides, and negatives for comparison. For a more detailed look at the services we eliminated and why, see The competition, below.
Flaws but not dealbreakers
If we had to identify one recurring flaw in the scans from Memories Renewed, it would be that images did not always come back with a neutral color rendering. When we sent in old photos, the resulting scans were more faithful to the color of the faded original prints than a more neutral color correction would be, as you can see in the example below.
The scan from Memories Renewed (left) maintains the warm tint of the original Polaroid print. By contrast, a scan of the same photo by Dijifi (right) shows a neutral white balance. Photo: Jacqui Cheng
The black-and-white negatives we got from Memories Renewed had a warm color cast. While the effect wasn’t by any means unpleasant, we much prefer the neutral monochrome images we got from both DigMyPics and Dijifi.
Black-and-white negatives from Memories Renewed were scanned with a warm color cast. In the image above, we removed all color from the top half to illustrate how much warmer the scan is from a neutral gray. Photo: Amadou Diallo
These are minor flaws, however. And it’s worth pointing out that the users most likely to be concerned about these issues will likely have enough experience with image editing software to quickly make any necessary adjustments on their own. for 39¢ per photo
Epson FastFoto FF-640
If you don’t trust sending away your photos, this scanner will digitize your photos faster than any we’ve seen, and then work for your documents too.
For people who don’t want to risk sending off their photos in the mail, and are willing to put a bit of time into scanning them themselves, we recommend the Epson FastFoto FF-640, a photo-oriented document scanner. It’ll let you scan your photos, and once you’ve digitized your memories, provide competent document scanning. The FastFoto is a modified document scanner that can work through a stack of photographs at around one image per second, far more quickly than manually arranging photos on a flatbed scanner and then cropping each one individually. But the FF-640 makes the scanning process simple and fast enough that we like it as an option if you have a very large number photos to scan, need immediate turnaround, or simply aren’t comfortable putting precious family mementos in the mail—and have the time to invest in scanning them yourself.
We estimate you’d have to scan about 1,500 photos (that’s around two full shoeboxes) with the FF-640 before it’s more economical than outsourcing.
Epson’s FastFoto software lets you assign a capture date and custom keywords to each batch of scans. These are used to create filenames and are stored in each JPEG’s metadata.
Before each set of scans you can batch-apply the year and month (or decade) the photos were taken and add descriptive text, both of which will be used to create filenames as well as embedded metadata. The FastFoto software can auto-create subfolders using this information as well to help keep images organized. The software also lets you connect to your Dropbox and Google Drive accounts for automatic uploading after scanning.
The FF-640 can automatically detect notes written on the back of your photo and scan that side simultaneously, appending the original filename with a “b” for “back.” This is a clever way to ensure that helpful information about your photos gets digitized as well. The software is smart enough to ignore things like the Kodak logos on the back of prints so that only those with personalized notes get the duplex scan treatment. On a Windows computer Epson’s FastFoto app automatically links the front and back photo files, allowing you to collapse them into a single item or view them side by side. As of this writing the Mac version of Epson’s app lacks any image-browsing capability.
Epson claims a scan speed of one photo per second. This is accurate if you scan at the lower 300 ppi resolution and discount the time it takes for communication and processing between the scanner and your computer. Using a MacBook Air we scanned a batch of 30 photos at a range of sizes up to by inches. With the FF-640 set to 300 ppi, the entire process, from pressing the start button to images appearing on-screen, was 3seconds. At the scanner’s maximum resolution of 600 ppi, this same batch of photos took minute, 4seconds.
The quality of the scans is far beyond what document scanners have typically produced. The FF-640 delivers colors that are reasonably close to the original with good detail and sharpness. We compared its output to some of the services in our photo scanning guide and found that while our top picks yielded more accurate skin tones, more neutral black-and-whites, and better results with faded and underexposed photos, the FF-640 actually held its own in well-exposed images that had vibrant color to begin with.
In addition to its photo capabilities you can use the FF-640 as a regular duplex document scanner. Its input tray holds up to 100 letter-size documents and Epson claims scan speeds of 4pages per minute. Epson has licensed the industry standard ABBYY OCR software for both Windows and Mac users to create searchable documents.
The FF-640 has its shortcomings. For a device aimed at preserving family photos, Epson’s lack of support for Polaroid prints is disappointing. In terms of image quality the FF-640 won’t come close to the detail and resolution of even an inexpensive photo-oriented flatbed scanner like the Epson Perfection V600, which can also scan slides and negatives.
Experienced users looking for advanced controls over color and output settings will be frustrated by the FastFoto driver’s lack of manual adjustments. Files can only be saved as JPEGs, for example, rather than the higher quality TIFF format. And scans of black-and-white photos result in a noticeably cool rather than neutral tint. Both of these flaws can be overcome by using the standard Epson Scan driver but then you lose the batch-naming, metadata, and custom subfolder features.
The FF-640 gives you some basic auto-correction options for faded photos and flash photos that show red eye in your subjects.
The FF-640 is the easiest, most efficient option we’ve yet seen for going DIY.
The FF-640 has an auto-enhance feature to minimize red eye and restore color to faded photos. For the vast majority of images we scanned, however, the auto-enhance feature made things worse, with overly contrasty results and a less accurate white balance. We’ve seen examples of this kind of technology from the likes of Adobe, Google, and Apple that work much better than Epson’s foray. We recommend leaving it off.
The FF-640 is all about speed and convenience, so there are going to be trade-offs. But if you have literally thousands of photos to scan and don’t want to send them out, the FF-640 is the easiest, most efficient option we’ve yet seen for going DIY.
Another option, if you prize simplicity over quality, is Google’s newly released PhotoScan app. Available at no charge for iOS and Android devices, the app helps you digitize your prints by guiding you to capture multiple exposures with your phone camera and automatically blending the results into a single image.
You’ll have to settle for image quality and resolution that are far below what you can get from any of our chosen scan services or the FF-640. It saved our scans of 3½-by-5-inch prints as 1-megapixel images of just under 1,400 pixels on the long side. This result is fine for social media and email sharing but nothing you’d want to use for critical tasks or to reprint. PhotoScan also doesn’t attempt color correction to accommodate faded 47-year-old baby photos like the one we’re showing here, so adjustments in image editing software (or Google’s own Photos app) may be required. It does markedly better with new images, but for archiving your old photos, it’s less than ideal.
The resulting image, while low in resolution and quality, is usable for sharing on social media. The original is a noticeably faded print from the late sixties. We found color and white balance to be much more pleasing on newer prints. for 59¢ per photo
Of the 1services we ended up actually testing, we were able to dismiss some based on quality and performance. We shipped out photos to California-based Scan Digital on July 2and didn’t receive them back in New York until October 26, a wait of three full months. (The fastest scanning service we tested returned scans within a week.) And outside of an automated email sent moments after placing the order we received no communication from Scan Digital during the long wait. They did provide a link to their order tracking tool, but it would simply show our job stuck on the same status for weeks at a time.
The similarly named Scan To Digital disappointingly returned our original prints and film in nothing more than a bubble-padded envelope (without even a protective layer of cardboard). It would not have taken much for the envelope to get bent or crushed during shipping, obviously a bad thing if you’ve sent in family mementos.
Scan To Digital returned our prints and film in a letter envelope slid inside a padded mailer, offering zero protection against damage while in transit. Photo: Amadou Diallo
Southtree captures their film scans at an unusually low resolution, resulting in 35mm negatives digitized at just 1,600 pixels wide. That’s fine for web viewing and plenty for emailing, but if you ever needed to make a print from that file, you will be limited to a 4-by-photo. By comparison, most other services gave us files that were 5,600 pixels wide, enough to make a 16-by-20 print.
Scan Cafe advertises appealingly low scan prices of 33¢ or less per item. But that’s only for images shipped out to Bangalore, India, where Scan Cafe does the actual scanning. For those who aren’t comfortable risking their family mementos making a trip around the world, Scan Cafe offers the option to have scans done in the US. This reduces turnaround time from six weeks to days, but the US scanning prices are higher. We paid 64¢ per scan (excluding shipping). And the scan quality was average—not horrible, but not great either.
Scan quality varies greatly between companies. Sending duplicates of the same photo print (top), we got wildly inaccurate scans from (left to right) Go Photo, Larsen Digital and Fotobridge. Photo: Amadou Diallo
Time for Digital
Both photo buffs and family archivists often turn to photo scanners to digitize their prints and film. Most such scanners provide photo-friendly features, such as high resolution and the ability to scan transparencies such as slides and negatives in addition to photo prints. Many include software to help retouch scans and remove scratches. Though they are geared to photo scanning, most photo scanners can also be used for general-purpose scanning, and some include optical character recognition (OCR) software. As a niche segment, there are relatively few photo scanners on the market, and they tend to have very long shelf lives.
Go With a Flatbed
One feature shared by nearly all true photo scanners is a flatbed. We strongly urge you to avoid making a habit of scanning photos (or any delicate originals, for that matter) through a sheet-fed document scanner, as it risks damaging your originals, even if they’re enclosed in a sleeve.
Center of Attention
Somewhere in your house is a drawer full of videotapes — aging home movies shot with a big, bulky camcorder that may not even work anymore. You haven’t watched these movies in years, but all this talk about the digital hub and iLife has got you thinking, “Why not transfer those old videos to the Mac and burn them to DVDs?”
Good thinking. Videotapes deteriorate over time. Heat, humidity, and improper storage take their toll on tapes, decaying the magnetic particles that represent your child’s first steps. By digitizing that old footage now, you can effectively stop the deterioration in its tracks.
Better still, if you own Apple’s iLife suite and a SuperDrive-equipped Mac, you can use iMovie and iDVD to enhance and share your footage for all to enjoy. You can cut the scenes that seemed important then but are snooze-inducing now, add music and narration, create chapter markers to allow fast access to important scenes, and then burn it all to multiple DVDs, so that everyone in the family can have a copy.
Transferring old film and video to DVD can be a time-consuming process — but it’s well worth the effort. This step-by-step guide will show you how to get set up and what to do with the movies once they’re on your Mac.
You also need a device that can convert the analog signal coming from your VCR or old camcorder into digital data. You have two options here: a MiniDV camcorder or an analog-to-DV converter box.
Most current MiniDV camcorders offer a pass-through mode, which converts incoming analog video into digital data, and then transfers that data to your Mac via a FireWire cable.
You’ll probably have to adjust some menu settings to access your camcorder’s pass-through mode. On many Canon camcorders, for example, you must open the VCR menu and turn on the AV To DV Out setting. In some cases, you may also have to remove the camcorder’s MiniDV cassette. Check your camera’s manual for specific instructions.
If your MiniDV camcorder doesn’t provide a pass-through mode, you can still use it. Simply dub your old tapes onto the camcorder’s MiniDV tape, and then import the MiniDV footage into your Mac. This process takes longer than just converting the data — you have to copy the entire tape before you can even begin importing footage — but it offers a significant advantage. When you’re done, you’ll have a complete MiniDV backup of your original tape. And because you have a digital backup of your footage, you can be more selective when importing scenes from your movie. If you decide you want to add more footage later, you can simply import it from the MiniDV tape rather than reconnect your entire transfer station. ). This stand-alone device mimics a camcorder’s pass-through mode but costs significantly less than a MiniDV camcorder.
Posting images is only allowed as self-post, and only when the intent is to start a discussion or to ask a photography-related question (using the photo as an example for the discussion, linked within the text of the self-post). If you just want to share an image or get critique, use subreddits like /r/pics, /r/itookapicture, and /r/photocritique.
For equipment purchasing advice and other questions about your individual situation, please ask in the most recent Official Question Thread posted regularly (also stickied to the top of the subreddit and linked in the sidebar). This includes longer and more advanced questions, not just beginner questions. Separate posts with questions are allowed if they are applicable to a broader discussion, but the same are also allowed in the question thread. When in doubt, post in the question thread only. When seeking purchase recommendations, please be specific about how much you can spend.
If you want to sell a photography item to redditors or want to buy a photography item from a redditor, please use /r/photomarket.
Denon DA-300USB DAC
If your player only has analog outputs (RCA red and white or simply a headphone jack), you can’t add an external DAC. Well, sometimes you can but the external DAC is simply taking the analog signal from your player, re-converting it to digital and then back to analog, before sending it through.
If the DAC in your player is the problem, this re-conversion process isn’t going to help.
Those working with phones or portable players with USB outputs should also be wary before adding an external DAC. Some phones do conversion even over the USB connection so you won’t hear a difference by adding a DAC. You’ll want to make sure that the DAC is connecting digitally to your device (they should say this in the specifications of the DAC).
Lastly, you’ll need some sort of amplification. If the DAC has a headphone output (and you will be using only headphones), then the amplification is built right in. But if you are connecting a set of speakers, you’ll need either self-powered speakers (like many studio monitors) or an external amplifier to power passive speakers.
Potential Converting Applications
Hymmen is one of the leading machinery suppliers of presses and complete production lines for high-pressure laminates (brands such as WilsonArt and Formica), a great amount of which are patterned. Laminate patterns come from a gravure-printed paper that is saturated with melamine and cured at high temperature and pressure. Hymmen supplies the multi-station gravure presses, not just for paper, but for direct to panel as well. And it now supplies roll-to-roll inkjet printers up to 2.m wide with speeds up to 50 m/min, as well as panel printers up to 2.m wide, also up to 50 m/min.
What technical developments have changed the availability of inkjet printing? Firstly, components that used to be made by OEMs now can be purchased from specialist manufacturers. For example, operating software, system controllers, ink supplies, and wide printhead assemblies (print bars) that ensure precise registration. So for the OEMs of converting equipment, an inkjet printer installation has similarity to that for gravure. Instead of providing the framing for the gravure roll, doctor blade, and ink supply, they provide it for the inkjet printhead assemblies and the ink supply. And in place of having pattern produced by engraving, it comes from the print controller, RIP, and front end.
Polytype not only supplies inks for the primary product applications, it also makes them. (Polytype obtained Ilford’s skilled ink team.) This is a distinct advantage for the purchaser because one company is responsible for ink and machine, and so there is a major incentive to complete it all on time. However, the inks will come with OEM pricing. On the other hand, there are now hundreds of inkjet ink formulators, so those companies that have their own inks or depend upon a third party ink producer are not excluded—indeed their expert skills about these new applications should be welcomed.
There is another component to Polytype’s capability—aqueous inks for plain films. The best solution to produce flexible plastic packaging is aqueous inkjet that uses inks based on the ingredients of flexo or gravure inks. The food industry will have few issues to adopt this process.
Electrophotography (printing with toners) has broken into this market—HP Indigo 20000 at 30 in. wide and 8fpm is an excellent system, but going faster or wider will be a real step change, and so far, toner has been approved only for dry foods.
UV inkjet is the process of choice for flexible plastic packaging based on image quality, speed, and width (500 fpm and 2.m, for example). Its component migration through film is a drawback for food, though. This problem is being addressed with low migration technology. I’m certain it will be successful, but the convertor must demonstrate compliance for every application, so it shall always have a burden. It would be much more attractive if individual compliance was not necessary.
So, if you are a converter and have thought about digital printing, now you can approach OEMs from our industry, buy the technology from them, and you could handle the process like you handled any other new printing process, just like you did when bringing in gravure or flexo.
Fujitsu ScanSnap iX500
With excellent performance, solid build quality and a deep feature set, the Fujitsu ScanSnap iX500 is a beast of a document scanner. This speedy sheet-fed workhorse has a 50-sheet automatic document feeder (ADF), can scan in simplex or duplex mode, and can scan to mobile devices and computers via Wi-Fi. It also offers highly accurate OCR.
Scanning speed (color document, 300 dpi) – seconds with AC power, 30 with USB
Fujitsu ScanSnap S1300i
For scanning documents on the go, reviewers say the Fujitsu ScanSnap S1300i offers the best combination of speed, accuracy, and portability. This 3-pound scanner fits easily in a carry-on bag, can accommodate up to 20 sheets in its feeder, and is capable of running on USB power alone. Reviewers say its software is very intuitive and offers great OCR capabilities.
Epson Perfection V800 Photo
For professional photographers and others who need high-quality photo scanning, experts say the Epson Perfection V800 Photo is the scanner to get. It has two lenses, so it can switch between 4,800 dpi resolution for photographic prints and 6,400 dpi resolution for slides and film. It also works fairly quickly, has a good selection of image-correction features, and supports most film sizes.
Although the CanoScan 9000F
Mark II produces very good images, its didn’t have the best image quality in similar to the Canon’s; it can scan film, slides, and negatives as well as prints, and it has digital image correction and enhancement (ICE) for editing out dust and scratches. Also, like the Canon, it has an LED bulb for instantaneous warm-up. However, its optical resolution of 6,400 dpi makes it capable of reproducing photo prints even more faithfully. Also, unlike the
Canon, the Epson Perfection V550 can upload scans directly to Facebook and other cloud-based services.
Unlike the CanoScan, the V550 doesn’t automatically touch up images to make them clearer. This means its images are incredibly accurate, but the downside is that any necessary adjustments have to be made by hand. Moreover, Schumer found the V550 harder to use. The first unit she tried never worked at all, despite hours of fiddling to have problems with the software, which she said was “very confusing” and “required a lot of trial and error,” even when she followed the instructions in the manual. In addition, the V550 is significantly slower than the CanoScan, taking about 1seconds for a black-and-white page, 20 for a full-color page, and 2for a photo.
B&H Photo have similar complaints, and several say Epson’s quality control isn’t the best. Moreover, owners find Epson’s technical support incredibly unhelpful. However, they admit that the scanner’s image quality is great, particularly for negatives, and that setup is usually easy.
Both the Epson and the Canon are backed by a one-year limited warranty.
Another problem with the
P-215II is its software. Diallo notes that the Canon software suite is available only on CD-ROM, which makes it impossible to install on newer Macs that don’t have an optical drive. This means you’re stuck with third-party who were able to install the software say it doesn’t work with Mac OS 10.1(Sierra). Owners also complain that the scanner occasionally grabs multiple pages at once, and scans on the card reader tend to come out crooked. However, users do like the P-215II’s small size, fast speed, and plug-and-play setup.
Apps that scan from your phone
If you only need to scan an occasional document while you’re on the go, you may not need a dedicated scanner at all. There are a variety of apps available for iOS and Android that can turn a photo taken with your smartphone into a PDF. They can even use OCR to create searchable text. Scanning apps aren’t as fast or as versatile as a
It’s designed for use with an iPhone or iPad. Reviewers like it because it
How to convert a video to MPand other formats
If a video won’t play on your TV, phone or another device, you might need to change its format. Here’s how to convert a video to MP(or another format). Plus, we explain everything you need to know about video codecs, containers, bitrate and more
Freemake is easy to use, but we’ve had mixed results over the years. Converted videos occasionally had out-of-synch audio or corruption across the bottom edge. At other times, they’re fine. Plus, Freemake supports nVidia Cuda so if you have a compatible graphics card, the conversion process can be hugely speeded up.
CyberLink MediaEspresso 7.5
Paid-for converters such as MediaEspresso (which costs £35) don’t watermark or add splashes to your video. MediaEspresso also includes support for Intel Quick Sync, nVidia Cuda and AMD APP to vastly speed up the conversion process. and can convert photos and music into the bargain.
This sounds pretty straightforward, but you might have some settings or special instructions that are unique to your VCR/DVD combo. Before you press the record button, check the manual. If you don’t have one, you can always find a manual online. Typically, there’s a record button, and the machine does all the work. When it’s finished recording, test the DVD by pressing play and watching it on the TV.
Connect a VCR to a DVD Recorder to Transfer VHS Tapes to DVD
This method isn’t quite as direct as using a VCR/DVD combo machine, but if you have a separate VCR and DVD player that also records its pretty straightforward. (Note: This is different than an external DVD burner for a computer.) The only other piece of equipment you’ll need is an RCA cable. You probably don’t need to run out and buy one of these cables. You may already have one that came with your cable box, DVD player, or even TV.
Make a connection
You need to connect the VCR to a DVD recorder. That’s where the RCA cable comes into play. The cable is color-coded yellow, red, and white. This is what’s used to transfer the video and full audio. You’ll want to plug the cable into the corresponding color outputs on your VCR and then plug the other end of the cable to the corresponding color-coded inputs on the DVD.
When you’re ready to start recording, press play on the VCR and record on the DVD player. This should be a seamless process, but you may want to check your DVD recorder manual in case there’s an extra step or two needed.
How To Use an Analog-to-Digital Adapter to Convert VHS Tapes to DVD
This method takes a couple of more steps, but it’s worth it. In this process, you will be saving the video on a computer first before burning it to DVD. Once the VHS video has been transferred to a computer, you can do a lot more with it such as edit the video, convert it to different formats and watch on multiple devices, and share it with friends and family on social media sites or via a video cloud service like RealCloud.
Connect the VCR to the computer
This is where the analog-to-digital converter comes into play. At the very least, one end will be USB and the other end will have a red, white, and yellow RCA cables. Connect the red, white, and yellow cables to the corresponding colored outputs on the VCR and insert the USB to the USB port on your computer.
Open the software on your computer
Many analog-to-digital converters will come with software that will transfer the VHS tape to the computer. However, you can also use software that you may already have. Windows users, for example, can use Windows Movie Maker. While Mac users can use iMovie to import and burn the video. The benefit of one of these methods is that you can then edit the movie or share it with others online before burning it to DVD. However, you’ll need to have the available space on your hard drive to accept the video. Figuring that out depends on the length of the content on the VHS tape, For example, a half hour VHS tape could take up to 43GBs of space on your hard drive. This is why you’ll want to burn the digitized video to DVD, upload it to a video cloud service, or convert it to a video format that takes up less space such as MP4.
Open the software on your computer and follow the prompts to import the video.
Burn the video to DVD
At this point, if you’re computer automatically goes into sleep mode, you’ll want to disable that feature. It’s more of a precaution to make sure you don’t have any problems burning the DVD. These next steps depend on the software that you’re using. Once you import the video, you can edit the content and add features such as chapters and menus. These will make navigating the content much easier. It’s also ideal if you have a bunch of VHS tapes of family videos and just want to store it on a single DVD.
Color depth, also called bit depth, refers to the amount of data, in bits, used for each pixel in a scanned image. More bits means more data used, which means you get better image quality so choose a model with as much color depth as possible.
If you’re just looking to scan text documents and similar items, then a color depth of 24bit should be sufficient. For photographs, you want to choose a scanner with at least 48bit color depth for great image quality. There are some scanners available with 96bit color depth, but that is pretty unnecessary and 48bit should be sufficient.
Additional USB Ports
Just about every scanner on the market connects to your computer through a USB port, though there are some wireless models available. If your available USB ports are getting a bit limited, then consider a scanner that has USB input ports as well. This lets you connect other devices to your scanner, which then connect through it to your computer. You can pretty easily find document scanners with at least one available USB port, but they are less common in flatbed models.
Choosing a Recorder
You have a number of options for how you approach recording audio, and each has its own advantages. For many, a computer-based recording setup using audio software is the most versatile and convenient solution. Others like the physical control offered by hardware. We will take a look at these different approaches and walk you through the buying considerations for each.
These days, most home-based recordings are made using a computer or iOS device rather than hardware-based recording consoles or tabletop recorders.Digital Audio Workstation (DAW) software offers features and capabilities that would otherwise be quite expensive in a hardware-based setup.
Now, you most likely already have a desktop or laptop computer that you have thought of using for your recordings. However, you’ll want to take note of some specs that are important when it comes to deciding whether your computer can handle the job.
The computer’s central processing unit (CPU) is the component that processes instructions sent from your computer programs. How quickly and efficiently a computer can do this is determined by its clock rate (measured in GHz), and the number of processing cores it has. Since you will be plugging in a number of peripheral devices and layering multiple tracks, it’s important to have plenty of processing power. That means you’ll want a minimum of two cores (preferably four) running at a minimum of 2GHz.
The Apple iMac 27″ Retina 5K 3.2GHz Quad-Core 2x4GB 1TB HD has plenty of music-production muscle with its quad-core Intel Core iprocessor and clock speed of 3.2GHz. A huge selection of compatible audio software makes it a great choice.
Random access memory (RAM) is a type of memory that programs use to perform audio processing tasks. Typically, audio software and the devices you plug into your audio workstation will require a lot of this type of memory, so more is better. For your recording setup to run smoothly, you’ll want a computer with a minimum of 4GB of RAM, and preferably more for complex recordings. Look for a computer that offers plenty of RAM expansion capability.
The audio files you’ll be creating are quite large, taking up roughly 800MB per 80 minutes of recorded audio. To store all this, you will want a hard drive with a minimum of 1TB of storage. You can also purchase high-speed external hard drives designed to work well with your audio files.
The Glyph StudioRAID mini offers compact and reliable external storage of your audio files with capacities ranging from 1–4TB.
Mobile recording with iOS
An alternative approach to mobile recording that can yield excellent results is to use your iPad or iPhone with peripherals designed for the job. You’ll see a range of options available on the Musician’s Friend site to turn your iOS device into a miniature recording studio on the go. With hundreds of recording, mastering, and effects apps to choose from, the sky’s the limit in terms of of iOS-based recording possibilities.
Your iPad connected to the Focusrite iTrack Dock is capable of producing great results on solo or duo recordings.
A great overview of recording with Focusrite’s iTrack Dock.
The rapid development of musician-friendly apps on the iOS platform has led to the introduction of lots of iOS-enabled gear. These days, your iPhone or iPad can be transformed into the command center for all your audio productions. Harnessing the iOS-aware microphones, mixers, interfaces, and controllers found in the Musician’s Friend iOS Store is a highly portable and affordable way to develop your music production skills while creating projects that can rival professional work.
The Shure Motiv MV5large-diaghragm condenser mic connects directly to your Lightning-equipped mobile devices plus Mac and PCs and produces astoundingly detailed recordings with plug ’n’ play simplicity.
If you opt to go for dedicated hardware for your recording rather than a computer-based system, there are a number of options. One of their greatest advantages are dedicated physical knobs, buttons, and faders that can be much easier to use than delving through the often complex multi-layered menus of computer-based software.
When you’re choosing a multitrack recorder, pay attention to how many tracks you get: audio, MIDI, actual and virtual, as well as how many you can record and play back simultaneously. All but the most basic multi-trackers should give you some editing and mixing features to polish your recordings.
A great option to wading through software menus, the Tascam DP-32SD Portastudio offers real hands-on control of all major functions and up to 3tracks of simultaneous playback.
While you’re browsing the selection and kicking the tires, here are some additional specifications to pay attention to:
Some computer interfaces include hardware controls, some have software controls, and some have both. They also often include mixer software to handle routing of the I/O and level meters.
The Mackie Onyx Blackjack Interface features preamp technology from the company’s flagship mixing consoles to help ensure great sound.
All computer audio interfaces have some latency, or delay, but very good ones have so little you don’t notice it. Most good computer audio interfaces will provide a way of measuring and controlling latency. Some provide a workaround, such as hardware signal monitoring. An interface with too much latency makes it nearly impossible to perform normal multitrack operations like overdubbing or real-time monitoring. A slower computer will contribute to latency.
Without audio software, computers would not be the music production powerhouses they are today. And there are plenty of software options capable of handling your audio production at every point from start to finish: recording, mixing, editing, mastering, duplicating, and in some cases even songwriting.
An industry standard software suite you will see in most modern recording studios is Avid’s Pro Tools. With lots of professional-grade features and plug-ins, Pro Tools is an excellent choice for those seeking the highest quality audio possible and nearly unlimited sound processing options. However, Pro Tools is a relatively complex program for novice users and involves a steep learning curve.
Pro Tools is the de facto DAW choice of many world-class studios thanks to its sterling sound, amazing plug-ins and capabilities that will let you conquer the most elaborate audio production challenges.
Explore the capabilities of Pro Tools 12—arguably the most advanced DAW software available today.
Another fully featured option often praised for its sound quality, flexibility and intuitive interface is Cakewalk’s Sonar. Sonar is available in a wide range of versions, with feature sets to suit users with different needs and budgets.
Sonar Artist allows you to record unlimited numbers of audio/MIDI tracks then edit them using a powerful, 64-bit mix engine and a boatload of tools, effects and sound libraries.
For those looking for lots of tools to help create music, in addition to recording and editing it, Propellerhead’s Reason is a very popular choice. With a sequencer loaded with synths, samplers and other music creation tools, it’s easy to produce music from start to finish. There’s a Reason version to match most needs and budgets.
Reason 9.is a favorite among remixers and beat builders thanks to its huge set of drums, synths, and effects wrapped up in an intuitive DAW interface.
We’ve just touched on a few of the most popular audio production applications. You can explore the huge selection available at Musician’s Friend here.
Choosing Recording Microphones
To get your music into your recording setup, you’ll need at least one good microphone, and probably several. The main types to consider are condenser, dynamic, and ribbon microphones. Each type has different sound characteristics and is used for recording in different situations.
The large-diaphragm MXL 990 Condenser Microphone is very modestly priced, yet captures highly detailed sound from voices and instruments.
Choosing Audio Monitors
Listening to the playback is an important part of the recording process, and you’ll want to make sure you’ve got the right kind of speakers to handle the job. Here, we’ll take a closer look at what makes a good set of studio monitors and cover some concepts to keep in mind when you’re making your selection.
Studio monitors are critical to good recordings. Intended to provide you with an accurate picture of the audio you are recording, overdubbing, mixing, editing and mastering, they are your first defense against bad sound. Most monitors used for recording today in homes and studios are near-field monitors. A near-field monitor is small enough that you will primarily hear sound coming directly from it—not sound reflecting off of the studio walls. When considering monitors, look at the frequency response and THD specs to get an idea of the monitor’s accuracy.
The biamped M-Audio BXCarbon is a trusted monitor in countless home studios due to its flat frequency response and accurate stereo sound field.
For connections, monitors usually have 1/4”, XLR, RCA or S/PDIF jacks. Some offer only unbalanced or balanced I/O, and some have both.
If you record beat and bass-heavy music or TV and movie soundtrack material, a subwoofer or surround setup will be helpful in monitoring the extended low-frequencies and extra channels necessary in those types of music.
The ADAM Audio Subhas a compact footprint, yet can reproduce frequencies down to 50Hz. Motorized controls allow easy frequency tweaks and wireless remote control.
In addition to your monitors, you might want to include some decent-quality, consumer audio speakers to get an idea of how your recording will sound on consumer devices. If you need some speakers designed for that job, take a look at the Musician’s Friend selection of audio playback equipment.
Listening using consumer-market headphones also can give you valuable insight about how your mix will sound on headphones that are voiced for the listening pleasure of the average music fan rather than 100% accurate sound as day-to-day recording and mixing headphones require.
Auditioning your mix on gear aimed at the consumer market, such as the Beats By Dre Studio Over-Ear Headphones will help you evaluate your mix in real-world listening scenarios.
Headphones are generally used for monitoring during recording and overdubbing, but high-quality headphones can be used for nearly everything, including critical listening and mixing. When considering headphones, look at the frequency response and THD specs to get an idea of their accuracy. Driver size will also affect how accurately a speaker can reproduce audio, since larger drivers can reproduce low frequencies more accurately. For recording, be sure to get at least one pair of closed-back headphones, which have better acoustic isolation that open-back models. This design prevents sound from the headphones from “bleeding” into the microphones.Listening using consumer-market headphones also can give you valuable insight about how your mix will sound on headphones that are EQd for pleasing rather than accurate sound.
Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO-80 Headphones have a closed-back design and deliver highly accurate sound reproduction making them a popular choice among recording and mixing pros.
Read Can I Record & Mix Music Just Using Headphones?
Headphones use either an 1/8” jack or a stereo 1/4” jack, and usually include an adapter for convenience when plugging into equipment that has one, but not the other.
Choosing a CD Duplicator
Between the writable CD-ROM drives available in many computers, and the proliferation of digital media, you might not have considered specialized equipment for duplicating CDs. However, there still is a demand for the CD format, and discs still are a great way to distribute demos and recordings locally.
If you will be making lots of CD copies, you may want to invest in a tool that will make it quick and easy. At Musician’s Friend you will find a range of CD/DVD duplicators that can quickly make multiple discs at once from a single source.
Choosing Recording Accessories
Some accessories are really necessities, and some simply make recording a little easier. You might need monitor stands, a recording desk, a patchbay, acoustic room treatment materials, a power conditioner, or a rack for your processors. You most likely will also need cables, mic stands, and recording media and extra storage for recorded digital audio.
At Musician’s Friend you can buy all the recording accessories you’ll need to have a great audio studio setup. And if you’d like to get a complete package to get you started, Musician’s Friend has a range of options available on our recording packages page. These packages take the guesswork out of putting together a recording rig since all components are carefully selected for compatibility with each other.
We carry multitrack recorders, computer audio interfaces, computer hardware, computer software, microphones, preamps, signal processors, mixers, headphones, and monitors from great brands like TASCAM, Fostex, Roland, Yamaha, Korg, Presonus, Digidesign, M-Audio, E-MU, MOTU, Cakewalk, Alesis, Apple, Steinberg, Sony, BIAS, Event, JBL, Mackie, AKG, Shure, RøDE, MXL, Audio-Technica, TC Helicon, ART, Avalon, Lexicon, Universal Audio, Allen & Heath and many more.
Scanning & digitizing your photos, slides, or negatives should be a one time expenditure done correctly with the options that are right for your needs. Determining the correct resolution for your needs is an important step when planning to use our scanning service to convert your traditional media into digital format. Below you’ll find some recommendation that will
What is Resolution? and what does DPI stand for? area scanned. Click here for a more in depth explanation.
First of all thanks for reading my article to the end! I hope you find my reviews listed here useful and that it allows you to make a proper comparison of what is best to fit your needs and budget. Don’t be afraid to try more than one product if your first pick doesn’t do the trick.
Most important, have fun and choose your Film To Digital Converters wisely! Good luck!
So, TOP10 of Film To Digital Converters
- №1 — Wolverine F2D Mighty 20MP 7-in-1 Film to Digital Converter
- №2 — ClearClick Film To USB Converter 35mm Slide and Negative Scanner with 3″ Color LCD
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- №5 — Magnasonic All-In-One High-Resolution 22MP Film Scanner-Converter
- №6 — Wolverine Data SNaP100 Slides – to Digital Image Converter
- №7 — Wolverine F2D 35mm Film to Digital Image Converter with 4-Inches LCD and TV-Out
- №8 — Wolverine F2D20 -20 Mega Pixels 35mm to Digital Converter
- №9 —
- №10 — Wolverine F2D Super 20MP 4-In-1 Film to Digital Converter